The Sari extends and stretches across centuries

The Sari, which came into being in North West India, stretches across history from the Indus Valley Civilisation (2800-1800 B.C.) until today. The journey of the sari started by weaving cotton which flourished in the Indian subcontinent around the 5^thmillennium B.C., when weavers started using prevalent dyes such as indigo, lac, red madder and turmeric to produce the drape used by women to hide their modesty.

The sari, the most feminine of Indian garments, captures the true spirit of mystic India in its unfathomed simplicity and naturalness. The subtle arrangement of the folds was designed ages ago and has come down as the heritage of Indian women. It is as fascinating to observe the remarkable transformation this spectacular piece of unstitched cloth takes by falling gracefully into a marvellous garment full of colour and form.

The sari is a five and a half metre continuous fabric completely untailored; it can therefore be a perfect fit for any figure. Part of the secret of a sari is the under garments – a waist-to-floor length petticoat tied tightly at the waist by a drawstring. Elastic cannot replace the string as it does not hold with the same firmness. This draw string is then the so-called lifeline of the sari – should it snap or tear, the young lady would find the folds of the garment in a pool around her feet together with the petticoat!

A tightly fitted ‘choli’ or blouse ending just above the waistline forms the upper half of the under garments. The sleeves of the blouse vary vastly -sleeveless, short cap-like sleeves, or traditional long sleeves that end an inch and a half above the elbow. In some regions, the sleeves are full length and end at the wrist. A variety of necklines makes the sari blouse a little different and sets the tone for the whole apparel. The traditional boat neck, square neck or V neck is followed by the more daring halter neck, backless and shoulder less blouses worn to evening functions especially by Bollywood stars.

To answer the questions posed by many admirers of this dress – how is a sari tied? Starting at the navel, tuck the plain end of the sari into the petticoat for one complete turn from right to left. Make sure that the lower end of the sari touches the floor. Beginning from the tucked in end, start making pleats in the sari about five inches deep. Make about six to nine pleats and hold them up together allowing them to fall straight and even. Tuck the pleats into the waist slightly to the left of the navel, and make sure they are turned towards the left. Drape the remaining fabric around yourself once more left to right and bring it up under the right arm and over the left shoulder so that it falls to about the level of the knees. The end portion thus draped is the pallu and can be prevented from slipping off  by fixing it at the shoulder to the blouse with a small safety pin, though usually it is worn without the pin and drapes naturally.

This is the style and method of the North Indian sari. Over seventy years or more ago, the pallu was usually worn over the head and it was considered unseemly for a woman to appear without her head covered. It was worn loose enough to allow the graceful folds to drop naturally from the head to the shoulders. The blouse was only just visible and the golden armlet worn on the right arm could only be seen through the sari material or when the arm was moved or raised. The whole presented a picture of graceful beauty, diffidence and charm. The sari is worn in diverse styles in the heterogeneous States of India.

The Maharashtrian sari, worn by the active women of the western coastal areas, is draped between the legs. In Goa, the sari is worn above the knees and usually without a blouse. Parsi women wear a chic sari draped loosely around the shoulders and held together by a large broach. The Bengali sari is worn almost without pleats – the pallu drawn over the left shoulder twice and the length of the sari material is usually only five metres. In Coorg in South India, the pleats are worn at the back and the short pallu is drawn over the right shoulder and pinned to the blouse with a broach. The front view of a Coorgi sari resembles an evening gown. It is a convenient style as it leaves both hands free. The classic fall of the sari is not disturbed in the various styles in which it is worn.

In the words of the renowned Sita Devi, the sari “expresses a sensitive individualism – the moods and emotions of its wearer. See the gay folds arrange themselves in indolent grace around her dainty, slim or robust figure. She could be pensive with her chin resting on an upturned palm, while the fingers of the other hand toy idly with the end of the pallu. Rising to indignation, she will fling back the end she was twirling and draw herself up to her full height as taunt as a bow. If she braces herself to immediate decision, she has a tendency to jerk the loose end of her sari across her hip and tuck it with determination into her waist. This is usually an ultimatum!”

Her persona reflects the shyness of a gazelle behind the lavish folds and pallu of her sari which also provide a world of comfort while dabbing tear-dimmed eyes. Sorrowful, serious, pensive or contemplative, flirtatious or happy, a thousand fleeting emotions find expression in the language of a sari.