Gourmets could rapidly turn into Gourmands

We stayed at home for thirty months or more during the Covid lock down. It was a feat we will not forget in a hurry. Although it was tedious, at times boring and very uninspiring, we eventually had to spread our wings, move out of our comfort zone and start investigating … what were people up to … were all the restaurants shutting down?

To take pleasure in eating home cooked food is healthy, but after a while the palate needs and demands a change. We decided to step into the world of “take-away” and we were stumped with the choice selection of food available. It did not take us long to realise that Gourmets could rapidly turn into Gourmands!

Where do we start? The choice is enormous, exceptional and does more than justice to the popular cuisines of the world. Our first takeaway delivery was from Tres, a family favourite tucked away in the populate but spacious Lodhi Colony in South Delhi. How did the idea of starting a restaurant come to mind? Tres opened its door in 2012, a brain-child of two Chefs, Chef Julia and Chef Jatin.

“The idea”, Julia explained, “was to do global flavoured food with local ingredients. The focus was on technique, ingredients and seasonal availability. India, as a country, has a great cultural diversity that is also very evident in her ingredient led cuisine. Our focus was using the elements and relishing the combination of flavours.”

How did Tres decide what type of food to serve? The food at Tres is not cuisine led. With the Chefs’ experience of working internationally and nationally they try to use both, regional and international cooking techniques with local spices and vegetables. The challenge is to bring out the different flavours … Tres is about taste and subtle aromas.

The Tres chefs purchase their products and ingredients locally. Whatever is not available locally or not part of the eco system is procured from abroad including items such as salmon, olive oils, olives, Parmesan cheese to mention a few. 

Tres, being a restaurant, had to close during the pandemic. What made them decide to start offering ‘take away’ items? What problems did they encounter and did they have to change the menu or adapt certain recipes keeping in mind that the cuisine had to arrive fresh and the packaging had to enable this? Julia described the pandemic as ‘the most difficult time she had encountered in her 35 years of professional life’. Deliveries were not what they were used to. All hands were on deck and the focus was on the need of the hour. They also worked in oblivion, not knowing when the situation would turn around and whether there was an end in sight. In an industry that relied so much on forward planning, it was a dubious, unsettled and indeterminate time. “But we knew we had to survive and it was the survival instinct that led us to start the take-away, ‘Tres Dining At Home’.”

Julia described the cuisine as “Tres style food but prepared and cooked in a manner where it would travel well and also represent the essence of Tres”. They added burgers, sandwiches, flat breads and a few pasta dishes to their repertoire. It was not what they had originally planned for but they had to adapt because the new dishes travelled well and their guests and regular clientele wanted comfort food in their homes, rather than the elaborate gourmet experience. “We didn’t get it right initially but with umpteen trials, we succeeded beyond our expectations.”

The special Tres attention did extend to the Tres dining at home. The food was well presented, delivered by knowledgeable staff who extended the service we termed ‘the Tres style’. Julia’s personal favourite dish on the menu is Pork Chorizo. It has been on the menu for ten years and is still a favourite with guests. Julia, who hails from Goa, says it reminds her of the Goan sausages they make at home. “It reminds me of my childhood … it is a nostalgic dish for me.”

Does Tres have any plans for the future? “Always evolving, we have added trout to our menu, cheese churros using mangoes and cherries to our desserts. We also add raw mango to our beverage and small plate repast.” The Tres chefs innovate and add new dishes to their menu all the time. 

What’s on the cards next? “Another version of Tres, perhaps more café style, with quick business lunches and perfect rendezvous reservations.” Keep your eyes pealed; Tres is discussing innovations and reaching out to guests by changing their repertoire.