The Shihuh mountains can be approached from two routes – the more difficult one is through Ras al-Khaimah, U.A.E. where one drives through Wadi Al Bih past the mountains and then south to Dibba. The other easier and more frequented route takes one from Dubai to Sharjah, Dhaid, Masafi and then north to Dibba. This part of Dibba belongs to Fujairah but further down it leads to Oman, of which Musandam is a part.
The sights here are almost intimidating with the contrasting beauty of the mountains and desert land with several villages en route. The homes are hewn out of stone from the mountain-side and the roof is constructed from wood and plant material. The houses in the area are the winter homes of the villagers. They are at a lower-level than the summer homes which are high up on top of the cliff, placed strategically to catch the breeze during the hot season. Rainwater is collected by the villagers for use during the hot summer months and water is also fed into tanks by tankers. Signs of graves can also be seen in some villages.
The group visited the Shihuh mountains and Musandam more than 30 years ago. During one of the trips made to Musandam, they were late retracing their steps to return as it was sunset. By the time they started going back, they knew they would not be able to get down the mountain before it got dark so they decided to camp. The next morning, as they were having breakfast, they were joined by a herd of goats followed by a woman who appeared to be their shepherdess. “I will never forget her face”, said Afsaneh, “she was small in stature, she had no teeth, had a wrinkled face and hands but she had young smiling, eyes and was not much over 30 years old.” The hard life in the rugged mountains had cracked her hands and she walked barefoot on the steep incline as sure-footed as the goats.
“Her feet were incredible”, Afsaneh continued. “Her big toe had become bigger and flatter and the four little toes had merged into one giving the impression of a goat’s hoof. It must have been due to the years she had spent in the mountains bare-footed.” The dialect the herd-woman spoke was a mixture of Arabic and Baluchi and her eyes sparkled as she chanced upon the jars in which the party had brought their coffee, nuts and sugar for the trip. She refused the offer of food but asked for a few empty jars. Unable to refuse her, they wrapped up their food in pieces of paper and handed her a couple of bottles. “She was delighted with the gift,” reminisced Afsaneh, “and she went immediately and fetched a small bundle tied in cloth in which she kept all her belongings for safe-keeping. The jars were added to this collection.” She left them to complete their meal driving her goats expertly on the aggressive terrain.
The villages of Musandam must be visited at least once by ardent campers. Once you go on this trip, chances are that you will want to return to the mountains again and again. You are stunned with the mesmerising scenes of spectacular nature. You could sit all night long imbibing the stars, the wispy clouds creating happiness looking like dancing when the music plays the old and the new, the rhythm starts to sway.
